Your average Joe will look at your collection of shears and think " why on earth does my hair dresser need so many scissors?". Every cutting technique has its own shear, some can be used for multiple of course, but there is a hair cutting shear for all the different cutting techniques.
There is the belief that you should choose your shear based on your hand size. While there is some truth to this, like someone with smaller hands will most likely not feel comfortable cutting with a 7 inch shear, there is also a need for a variety of different sized shears in your tool kit. Now a 7 inch shear may be too big for some, everyone should have a longer shear. If you normally cut hair with a 5 inch shear, a 6 inch shear may be long enough for you. Using different shears that are different lengths can help you achieve the perfect hairstyle every time! Here are a few cuts that will benefit from a longer shear.
Blunt cutting is one of the essential skills you will learn for cutting hair. You will use it over and over again. Achieving a perfectly straight, blunt line in your cut may be easier if you're using longer shears. A perfect example of a blunt hairstyle is the Bob. Cutting a blunt bob is certainly one of the most popular haircutting techniques you will learn in your career.
How do longer shears help with blunt cuts/ bobs?
When cutting a bob you may want to begin your hair cut on wet hair. Especially when removing a lot of length, wet hair can help you get a very straight line. It is important to make sure you take small sections, as a large section of hair may be hard to cut through, preventing your lines from being super straight . That being said, longer cutting shears can help you remove a bit more hair than shorter cutting shears. The long blades of a long scissor will help you cut a very straight line as it will cut the same along the whole blade. Using a longer shear is great for wet or dry cutting, making them a great all rounder for your kit!
Once you have used your long scissors to create nice straight lines you may want to consider using them to add a little texture. Using a 6 inch shear can help you achieve nice and easy deep point cutting. Deep point cutting will help remove weight and add texture to a blunt cut. Softening the line of a blunt cut can help shape the hair and add beautiful texture to your finished cut.
Scissor over comb is the barber or short hair specialists, bread and butter. Instead of sectioning hair and using your fingers to cut, you use your comb. This technique is used mostly for shorter hair styles. So longer shears are also great for hairdressers who do a lot of shorter haircuts, as you will most likely be using a scissor over comb technique.
To execute a scissor over comb haircut you can choose to start on either damp hair or dry hair. Using your comb, lift a section of hair straight out and cut along the comb in one quick swift motion. Continue to section hair with your comb using the previous section as your guideline. To blend your scissor over comb perfectly it is important to remember to move your shears faster than you move your comb. It is also important to make sure you are opening and closing your shears fully to ensure you are using the whole blade. This guarantees a straight smooth line. Barber shears are usually 7 inch shears, the longer blades help to keep your hair cuts quick and looking good. However, if you have smaller hands a 7 inch shear may feel quite heavy, so you may want to try a 6 inch. A longer shear is great but it is most important that you are comfortable using your tools. You may also find most thinning shears are longer, averaging around 6 inches. This will help you blend your cuts, reduce weight lines and create movement... quicker!
Certain hairstyles will require you to cut with your shears against the skin. To a newcomer this skill can be quite daunting. However once you perfect it it is a great skill to have.
Longer shears can help you master the skill of cutting on the skin. The length of the blade will help you have more control over the shears. This will help you make sure your lines are straight, and you don't accidentally cut your client. You will feel more secure using a long scissor than a short one when cutting against the skin. Often you will find yourself cutting against the skin for mens cuts, short hairstyles and for bobs. For mens cuts you will often find you need a longer blade to cut around the perimeter of the cut. Longer shears will not only help you take bigger sections but it will give you more control and prevent you from cutting your client, or their ear. You may also find it more comfortable to maneuver a longer shear when having to flip it over to cut around the ear. The longer blades help to keep your hands further from the head, for more range of movement. For cutting bobs you will find you often cut your blunt lines against your clients neck. Not only will a 6 inch or 7 inch shear ensure your lines are very straight, it will also help protect their skin.
While we definitely recommend having a long pair of shears, how long you go is up to you. It is important that your shears feel comfortable in your hands and are easy for you to use. We recommend testing out a 6 inch or maybe even a 7 inch shear and see how they make you feel. After all, here at scissor tech we have a 7- day return policy, so if that 7 inch shear does not work for you, send it back and get the 6! We are here to help.