How Many Teeth Do I Need On My Thinning Shears

January 02, 2023

So you've decided it's time to purchase some thinning shears. Maybe you've read one of our blogs about how great they are, or you've decided to embrace the craziness and fall in love with these crazy looking shears. Whatever it is that's brought you here, we are here to help you choose your next hair thinning shears.

All about thinning shears

What exactly are thinning shears? Simply put they are a shear made with one sharp straight blade and one blade made of teeth. These teeth help with weight removal in a haircut. They remove weight without removing length from a cut. Thinning shears are great for thick hair and removing weight from the interior of the cut.

Thinning shears have a few different names as well. You may find them called blending shears or finishing shears. This is because they are great for blending cuts and softening hard, blunt lines. You can use your thinning shears on just the ends of the hair to soften blunt lines. They can be used to blend layers, fades, bangs etc.

Thinning shears can range in number of teeth from 25-40 . The more teeth they have, the less hair is removed. So if your thinning shears have 40 teeth they will only remove between 35-40 percent of the hair, or better known as the cut percentage. The less teeth your thinning shears have the more hair will be removed, think more like chunkier weight removal, with a higher cut percentage.

Then of course there is the texturizing shear. They are not to be confused with the thinning shear. Texturizing shears can have anywhere from 5-25 teeth. They will remove chunks of hair and give a lot of texture. Unlike thinning shears they will not help you if you want to seamlessly blend layers or soften the ends of a haircut. They will, however, give you amazing choppy texture!

Using your thinning shears

To help decide how many teeth your thinning shears need let's explore what these shears can do for you!

If you have a client with fine to medium hair you will want a thinning scissor with more teeth. This means you will be removing less hair, while softening hard lines. For clients with thinner hair thinning scissors work to help you create volume. For this client's hair type we need to be cautious that we do not over thin their hair. Using thinning shears with wider teeth may leave holes in your cut. It is also important to note that when we use thinning shears on this type of client we do not cut too high up the hair shaft. Doing this can result in fly aways. This is why for clients with fine, thin or medium hair we always recommend a pair of thinning shears, or blending shear with 35-40 teeth so you don't cut too much hair.

For clients with thicker hair we can use our thinning shears with less teeth, or even our texture shears. With more hair you are less likely to leave any holes in a hair cut. When using thinning shears or texturizing shears we must remember not to cut in straight lines. Cutting in straight lines can leave gaps and more lines. We recommend using your thinning shears by lifting the hair and cutting into it with your scissor to avoid any scissor marks or a cutting line.

You can also use your thinning shears for other weight removal techniques. Almost anything you can do with a regular shear you can do with a thinning shear. You can use them to point cut, twist cut, slice cut etc. 

We should also mention double sided thinning shears. These shears have teeth on both blades as opposed to the usual one blade. These scissors are great for an even softer finish. As you can imagine though they are more pricey and harder to sharpen. 

So how many teeth should you choose?

Well we hope we have given you enough information to help you make this decision. Most stylists will choose a thinning shear with 30-40 teeth as the thought of over thinning hair can be quite scary. We tend to agree. It is almost best to have one thinning shear and one texturizing shear. This will ensure you get the best of both worlds, and your clients can have softer blended hair, or awesome chunky texture! If you're still on the fence about what new pair of thinning shears to get, reach out to our very friendly customer service and we can help you choose your next thinning shear!

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