How To Cut The Perfect Bob

October 09, 2022

The Bob haircut! It's a classic. This haircut never goes out of style and is a must in every hairstylist's repertoire. It may have evolved over time, but the basics of the bob remain the same. Let us help you create the perfect bob for every client that will sit in your chair!

What exactly is a bob?

The bob haircut was created in France by Antoine De Paris, a polish born hairdresser, in 1909. That means this style has been around for quite some time, and continues to be one of the most popular hairstyles today. There are many variations to a bob. You can add layers or graduation to achieve a layered bob or graduated bob ( think a bob that is much shorter in back and longer in front). You can cut the bob using a razor to achieve a textured bob. Some clients may want a fringe with their bob for a more chic look or a long bob ( a lob) for an easier, more flattering look. Not all bobs are created equal, but they are guaranteed to turn heads everywhere.

The basic definition of a bob haircut is basically a short to medium length cut that is above the shoulders. The basic bob cut is blunt cut with straight lines from the back of the head to the chin. The length you choose for the bob should be based on your clients face shape. Someone with a rounder face will benefit from either a graduated bob with longer length in front or a longer bob in general. You can find the perfect bob for every person!

Where to Begin

For cutting a bob we recommend you have a longer, sharp pair of quality shears to get you started (definitely check out our Precision Shearshere, the best shears to get the job done). You will also need sectioning clips and a comb. It is best to begin your bob haircut on wet hair and then fine tune the shape after a blow dry... so you will definitely need a hairdryer! For finishing the bob you may also want a pair of thinning or texturizing shears.

One of the most important things to remember when cutting bobs is following the natural fall of the hair. The bob haircut is quite precise and it is important to follow where the natural position of the hair is, or it will affect the perfect sleek bob look. So you must remember when consulting with your client to have a close look for cowlicks and other little jumps in the hair line, neck line and the apex ( top point) of the head. This should be done before and after you shampoo their hair. It is also important to note the texture of your clients hair. Curlier or wavier hair will shrink up when dried so we must remember that when we create their bob!

It is also a must to pay attention to your clients body position when they are in your chair! Leaning slightly to one side, or slouching forward will affect the straight line of their bob.

Creating the bob

To begin our bob we must first part the hair. You will want to part the hair in to 4 sections. First find the natural part. All the cowlicks and jumps you looked for during the consult will now help you determine where the part will be. Again, this natural fall is all very important when cutting bobs. Not all bobs, and clients can have a middle part!

Take the first section from the apex ( or the top) of the head to right behind the ears. This will split the head into 2 sections ( the back and the front). Then finding where the natural part landed on the apex of the head, follow that down to the nape of the neck for your next section. You should now have 4 sections.

Now find the occipital bone ( back of the head ) and from there take smaller, diagonal sections for the occipital to the hair line at the nape of the neck. When cutting the bob you will continue to take small sections from there, up the back of the head.

To achieve that perfect bob with those beautiful straight lines we will need to avoid any elevation. So using your comb with medium tension, comb the back sections straight down on the neck and cut against the skin. Doing this will ensure there is no elevation in the hairstyle. This is most important when cutting the perimeter, you can add any details after you achieve those perfect lines. We recommend using a little over direction for those corners. Over directing towards the back of the head will help avoid cutting them too short, changing the shape of your bob. Remember you want the bob to be slightly angled forward. 

If your client has asked for a more choppy bob, with a lot of texture you may want to point cut the entire perimeter, or use a razor to really break up those ends!

Once you have completed the back of the head you can move to the side sections. Remember you are following the natural part. Take smaller sections and again comb the hair straight down. You will want to slightly angle these sections so that the front remains a little longer. Don't forget about your clients ears. To maintain the line and ensure you don't develop any holes by the ear it is important to loosen the tension. You can do this by gently pushing the comb against the hair above the ear, loosening the hair. Continue to take small sections and complete both sides of the haircut. 

Finishing your bob

Now that you have completed the perimeter of your bob it is time to add any details you may need. You can now layer the bob, creating more movement. Or maybe blow dry the haircut and add your personal touch from there. A little point cutting will help break up the straight lines and create softer edges. Maybe you will want to use your thinning scissors to create an even softer look. We also recommend checking your perimeter of the cut when it is dry to make sure you've created the perfect shape!

The Perfect bob

Well done! You have now given your client the perfect bob! Many women love this style and you can help them achieve all their bob goals! Long live the bob!

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