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So often we forget that as hairdressers we can use more than just scissors to achieve a certain look. Razor cutting can be a welcome change to your cutting repertoire. Let's talk about razors, shears and all the cool things you can do !
Now you may have noticed your new scissors from Scissor Tech have come with a razor and blades! That's because we totally want you to be creative, however you choose. So let us give you a bit more insight into razors.
The most common razors you will come across are feather razors. These are a razor blade with a guard on it. The guard looks almost like it has teeth, or a serrated edge. This razor is great for adding so much texture to your haircuts. You may also see some experienced hairdressers use a straight edge razor. A straight edge razor has no guard on it. This means that the sharp blade is more exposed. You can still achieve a textured look with this razor type, however it is not recommended you use this razor sharp blade without experience. When cutting hair with an extremely sharp exposed blade it is easy to cut yourself .
Razor cuts are known for texture. If you're thinking of shags or choppy layers, using a razor may be for you. The razor is specifically designed for making sure no lines are too straight or create any weight !
Like most cutting techniques there are some clients who the razor is ideal for, and some who it is best to avoid the razor cut.
Using a razor on thick hair can really help create texture and remove a lot of weight. A feather razor can leave ends wispy and with a lot of movement. Blunt lines in thick hair can be hard to soften, so if you cut hair with a razor you do not have to go back through and soften any harsh lines. Razor haircuts are also great for short hair. If you're wanting a very textured pixie or messy mens cut, using a razor to texturise the hair can give you a great messy, piece-y finish. You can also use a razor on finer hair. The way the razor cuts the cuticle of the hair can actually help give flat, fine hair texture and body!
Barbers may also find that razors work well for them too! For example, they are great for helping to blend heavy sides. Barber scissors are often longer and heavier, making the razor a faster, easier tool to use.
When you use a razor to cut hair it can be rough on the cuticle. That shattered look it can give is great however on the wrong hair it can cause problems. If a client already has frizzy hair a razor can actually make that worse. Keeping a razor haircut away from curls, especially frizzy, curly hair is probably for the best. If a client already has over processed hair, a lot of split ends, or their hair is easily damaged it is best to avoid the razor haircut for them.
When razor cutting it is important to remember that razors will work best on wet hair. Using a razor to cut dry hair can lead to split ends and frizz! A razor will also pull on dry hair which can be very uncomfortable for your client. Knowing how and when to use your razor can make all the difference in your hair cutting. Razors are only bad for cutting hair, if in an uneducated stylist's hand ! Knowing when and where to use one will make all the difference.
We are sure by now you understand how to use regular shears. But what if you want to achieve a similar texture, without using a razor!
Regular shears can be used for all sorts of texturising techniques. You can soften lines and add movement and texture by point cutting or slide cutting. A stylist may also use thinning scissors to help remove weight and add texture. Certain techniques, like the ones we mentioned, can mimic the look of a razor cut. These are great techniques to use if your client has frizzy hair and you're trying to avoid razor cutting.
While both of these tools can elevate your cutting and make you a stand out stylist, they do have differences. The biggest difference is that hair shears will always leave you with more blunt ends and a clean cut, whereas a razor will taper to a softer end. Of course either technique has a place behind your chair. And if you are well versed in both tools of the trade, you can not go wrong ! Your clients will love having the option to choose between a shaggy razor cut or a beautiful blunt bob!