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Ever wonder why hairdressers have so many different styles of shears? Why do we need such a large arsenal of tools? Just like you use different sized screwdrivers for different projects, we use different shears for different cuts. So what exactly do you need in your arsenal for each different cut that you will undoubtedly do throughout your time behind the chair.
Blunt cutting techniques are used in almost every haircut. Whether it be just for the guideline or for the whole cut. Even a bob, one of the most popular blunt cuts, can require more than one scissor. So let's discuss what cutting shears are best for you to use when trying to achieve the perfect blunt cut and/ or blunt lines.
To begin, any hair cutting shears you use for a blunt cut needs to be super sharp. Sharp shears are important for straight lines. We recommend using a semi- convex blade to help achieve a nice, straight line. You can use a beveled edge as well, but remember they won't be as sharp as a semi- convex blade, so make sure you keep those sections small, especially with thick hair! You should aim to use a medium sized shear, 5-6in. would be best. We recommend our Matsui Precision Cutting Shear 6 in.Click here to check them out. You can use them on wet and dry hair and are great for precision cuts.
Now before we go on to more hair cuts, let's discuss one of the most important parts of a cut, the detailing and texturizing. Adding texture and little details to even a plain blunt cut can really make your talent shine.
The most popular tool for texture - the thinning shear. Every hairdresser and barber will most certainly have one of these ( maybe more ) in their tool kit. Thinning shears have 40 or more teeth. They are designed to remove weight and hard lines. Sometimes just dusting the ends of a blunt cut can help give it a lighter appearance. Thinning shears can help remove hard lines in layered haircuts, and blend fades in men's cuts. Try out our Matsui Rose Gold 6in ThinnerHere.
We then have the close relative to the thinning shear- The texturizing shear. The texturizing shear is not as popular as the thinning shear, but is just as helpful. Texturizing shears have wider spaced teeth, anywhere from 5-25 teeth. Less teeth will mean chunkier texture while more teeth will be less extreme. Texturizing shears are great for short, choppy haircuts and wispy bangs. For a chunkier texture try out our 7 teeth JWTS7here. For a bit more subtle texture check out the Matsui Crystal Silver Elegance 14 Texturizerhere.
Not every method of texturizing and detailing requires a funky looking shear. We can also use scissors with different lengths and blades to achieve our desired results. Every haircut can benefit from some personalized detail. One of the most used methods is point cutting. Point cutting can remove weight and hard lines and add some movement. It is a technique that involves cutting straight into the section of hair, making points. We recommend using a shorter, sharper shear, like our5.5 inch Matsui Damascus Offset Shears.
Another method of texturizing that can be used in many haircuts is slide cutting. Slide cutting is done on wet hair. You are sliding your shears open, along the hair shaft. Slide cutting hair can be used to blend layers, add movement and soften lines. You will need an extremely sharp shear to achieve the best results. If you use the wrong shear it can pull the hair and be painful to your client. Using a sharper convex edge to slide cut hair is your best option. A convex blade is sharpest but will also dull quickest, especially if used for the wrong techniques. It is not recommended for just blunt cutting. Try out our Matsui VG10 Slidershere.
If you're doing any haircut, besides a blunt cut, you will most likely be cutting some sort of layer. Layers add different lengths to a haircut. You can have short layers or long layers. For a layered haircut we recommend having at least two types of shears. A longer shear will help you to cut your guidelines and layers. You can simplify your shear collections by having a semi convex blade to use for both blunt cutting and adding layers. You will then want to make sure you have another shear for all your little details. Slide cutting and point cutting are very helpful for finishing off a layered haircut. You can also use your texturizing shears or thinning shears to finish. To simplify your collection you could go for ourRose Gold Matsui Precision Triple Set
Pixie cut, a very popular, short haircut, uses many different shears. You'll need your regular scissor ( semi convex, medium length) to cut the frame of this haircut. Pixie cuts are very textured and have a lot of detail. You will definitely want to use your texturizing shears to help add chunky texture through the top of this cut. The edges of a pixie cut often include a lot of detail. To achieve all those small details we recommend using short bladed cutting scissors , like ourGluck Pro Classic 5in. This will help you to cut and add texture to the hairline and around the ears and give you a precise cut. Another hair cutting tool that is very useful for pixie cuts ( or any cut that needs an abundance of texture) is a feather razor. A feather razor will give you softer edges and a more wispy finish. All our Matsui shears include a feather razor to add to your collection.
A barber's shear collection may look a little different. The most popular scissor technique used by a barber is scissor over comb. Barbers find it easier to cut through hair faster and more even by using a shear with long blades. However if your scissor is not sharp enough it can lead to just pushing the hair and not giving you an even finish. Barber shears also tend to be a bit heavier than your shorter shears and take practice to gain control. This is why we highly recommend ourMatsui Serrated Edge Barber Scissors. They are 7 inches and feature micro serrated edges. The serrated edge helps to grab the hair so it is easier to control. They are also thinner, adding to your control and helping you achieve a closer finish. Along with your barber shears you will need a pair of thinning shears. Thinning shears will help you texturize and blend your men's haircuts. You can even use your thinning shears to help blend your clipper work as well.
Adding bangs to a cut is on trend right now. But what are the right tools to use? For a blunt bang you will need to use a shear similar to what you would use for most blunt cuts. Using a shear that is 5 - 5.5 inches will give you a nice blunt bang. Your texturizing shears will help you make a more wispy, textured bang. When using your thinning or texturizing shears make sure to only cut towards the end as not to leave shorter hairs sticking up in your bangs. If you're just trimming bangs you can use your everyday shear, given they are sharp and semi- convex.
Every hairstylist will have a favorite shear. The most popular types of shears are often Japanese stainless steel and German shears. Both have razor sharp blades, are extremely durable and will give you a quality pair of shears. There is also the option for swivel scissors. Swivel scissors might take some getting used to but in the end may help hand fatigue and pain in your wrists.
How many shears do you have in your collection? What could you add to take your hair cutting to the next level?